Keep in mind of course the sample images may be at different magnifications of the scene, but the study is for how well the sensor was recording those pixels and how "
clean" they were as well as for how smoothly they went along with the color change pixels beside them. The above images were also capture with the
same lens at ISO 400 viewed at 300%. I must say that I am a bit surprised in the results from the D7100 based on how things use to be with film.
If the film has smaller and more grains in it, it was called a "
fine grain film"
and produced
a sharper image. And as in the D7100, since the sensor is smaller, as a result it crams 24 million pixels into a smaller space, thus they would have to be smaller like in a fine grain film. With the FX sensor being also 24 million pixels, then each pixel would be larger and seems like there would less pixels available to make the
transition from pixel color to pixel color.
While there seems to be just a little more noise in the DX sensors, it is the
chromatic aberrations that you may not ever notice unless you magnify the image well past 100%. Since both the D600 and D7100 image
at 100% when printed at 300 PPI comes out to be a
13x20 print, you may never encounter visibly seeing such aberrations.
But... Back The Question
Is it worth the extra cost to go with FX format?
Of course aside from the issue of cost, one should also add their personal requirements from a camera in the equation.
If most of your images are going to be printed that is a consideration that plays into the decision much more than if you always are using your image only on computer and TV screens.
Even the
14Mp image from the D3100 at 100% is a
10 x 15 print, and a very sharp one at that.
But when you reach beyond the areas of 100%, such as if you print at 20x30 or larger, then you will see the differences a little more, but I will admit you will have to look closely. I have quite a few 20x30 prints in galleries that were captured on a 12 Mp vintage DX format Nikon D2x, and unless you would know how close to examine the print, you possibly may not be able to tell the difference in a 20x30 print from the FX format D600.
It is often like when I see a spot in a print from some dust or some other error in the process, and I show that print to an audience of people without pointing out the bad spot,
very few if any will notice it. Or like the analogy that, if you never drove a Cadillac, then you wouldn't know the difference from the ride of a Pinto. That is, until you rode in the Cadillac and then got back in the Pinto, from that point it would be glaring in your face what the difference would be.
The D7100 handles like a big camera, has a
fast shutter response and produces a hell-of-a image that could be enhanced or repaired in Light Room or Photoshop to produce masterful works. The deciding factors in going to Full Frame would need to be, how big are you going to print and how often are you going to want clean images at
high ISO's like 3200 or 6400. And even though both the D600 and D7100 will go up to ISO 25,600, you certainly will not get clean gallery quality images at those speeds.
If the
price difference of a D7100 @ $999 and a D610 @ $1,499 doesn't bother you... then make sure the cost of glass is factored in as well. Since a DX format 16-85 mm lens is $699 and a similar speed FX 24-85 mm lens sells for $599, you really
can't go by the common statement I hear all the time that "
FX glass cost a lot more". Yes, most of it does cost more, but there are enough comparable lens available at similar price points.
You can find some similar lens between the two formats in the same price, but the variety is not the same. You will also find a greater variety of faster, higher quality lens for the FX cameras...
of course at a hefty price.
Do It Again?
After scrolling through the images from these three cameras, looking at them at various magnifications and being rather critical about the quality of one pixel next to the other... and you were to ask me
if I had a "do-over".
"
Would I still buy the FX camera over the crop frame"...
Hell Yes, I would.
But keep in mind, that is based purely on the presentation and printing requirements I have from
my images.
If I never needed
large format output and mostly kept everything on the computer or just small prints, then there wouldn't be much need for me to go Full Frame.